On a winter morning, At Ajmer Sharif Dargah

 

Are you a solo traveler in India? Are you a female solo traveler in India? More so, are you a female solo traveler paving your way towards Ajmer? Here are a few generic insights culled out from my recent trip to Dargah Sharif, where was laid the foundation stone of Islam.

The distance to Ajmer can be set in an overnight train from Delhi, if you are a loner, prefer booking your berth in the AC coach for a few logical reasons. The co passengers are more trustworthy, you can trust them with the luggage in case you want to use the loo. If it is a wintery night, you get clean bedding that makes your night journey more comfortable.

Once you reach Ajmer, use the G-maps to find out the way. Dargah is at a walkable distance from the railway station as well as the bus stop. Beware of the rickshaw-walas who might want to charge you a hefty amount knowing that you are a tourist in their city.

There are different gates to reach the Dargah. The Laxmi Bazaar entrance is the nearest from the station. It is absolutely safe to cross check your way with the locals there but make sure you ask at least a handful of people to get a confirmation on the way. There are quite a few twists and turns on the way; the bazaar lanes branch out into a multitude of routes which the G-map might not be able to identify.

Once you are closer to the Dargah, you would be approached by many shop owners to buy items that you can donate at the Dargah. Be very conscious of buying, in case you do not want to donate, do not be bothered by their constant nagging. In case you change your mind later, there are shops within the Dargah as well. Many of them will also trick you into removing the shoes and keeping it in their shop; make sure you do not fall for one of those. There are proper facilities available within the Dargah and it is best to use them. They are safe and closest to what you can get.

If you are one of those tourists who like to spend a lot of time understanding the history and architecture of the monument, or if you are one of those who like to immerse in the spiritual vibe of the shrine, or even if you are one of those who like to spend a comfortable time with the God within the shrine, make sure you carry minimum luggage with you and in fact nothing significant. Ajmer Sharif Dargah is usually a very crowded spot, owing to its significance in the religious history of India. Even though luggage deposit services are available, it is hard sometimes to manage everything manually, which can lead to an increased probability of losing the stuff. The crowd is immense during the Urs and other Islamic festivals. A high alert level should come in handy at a place like this.

Usually one tends to be immersed in the sufi vibe of this place but being a solo visitor can make you lose the carefree vibe. While it is important to enjoy the peace of the place, it becomes equally important to not lose the peace of our own mind. Personally, I chose a mundane Monday morning to visit the Dargah; it was not surprising to find a lot of walking space and yet witness the sincere dedication and offerings of the faithful.

There is a tint of green in everything you see inside the Dargah. The old monument is intact and holds the history of many generations within. Many emperors have witnessed the rise of Islam through this very land. A faith of many centuries is visible and strongly held in the practices followed even in this modern age.  Some of the archaic traditions are still in practice. From invocations to blessings, many there have something to seek from Allah; many also are searching for themselves, within their soul. It is a common sight to see humans rolling themselves on the floor, crying out loud, just so the God hears them, accepts them and give them what they want. Some of these traditions seem to be unnerving in today’s age.  But then there is also the most natural, and always within range, the sufi music, which is soothing and soul touching. It has the shine of the sun and the depth of the ocean. It has the divinity which not only reaches for the clear conscience but also touches the surreal depths of the heart. If I had more time and no further travel plan, I would have waited in the shrine to see, hear and absorb more of this music that fills the air.

I was getting somewhat conscious being alone there and was not up to the highest mark of my carefree capabilities. I decided to take an early bus to Pushkar, 15 kilometers from Ajmer, where I was looking forward to explore some of the more unique pilgrimages of India.

As I found out my way out from the Dargah, the first thing I saw was a Hindu temple and a little further, on the main road, was a church. It fills me with wonderment every time I see these tiny yet significant examples of the national integration and harmony. In a pro-Islamic area, there is space and an open heart for the other cultures to co-exist. This is the true India that the world needs to see!